Regular readers will know that the last few weeks have seen me delve into the world of the extrait. For various reasons – some of them more understandable than others – this particular format of scents hasn’t been given a great deal of attention in recent years. But I’d say now is the idea time to bring about a change. For one thing, the more intimate, more personal aura of extraits is well suited to a time when we’re not mixing with each other as much as we might like to. And for another, their undeniable ‘specialness’ makes them a superb gift in a year when you want to show what your nearest and dearest truly mean to you. So, the first part of my Christmas perfume gift guide for 2020 features nothing but extraits. Enjoy rediscovering some of these gems in what is arguably their most show-stopping form.
Links are to my original reviews, where available. Keep an eye out for part 2 of the Christmas perfume gift guide, which will feature a wider range of products.
Guerlain Jicky (Aime Guerlain)
The oldest perfume still in existence is a must for any collection, especially in extrait form. Fall in love all over again with those herbal, lavender-heavy animalics.
Chanel No. 5 (Ernest Beaux)
The eve of its 100th anniversary is perhaps the perfect time to revisit the extrait of this sparkling marvel of perfumery. For the festive season, the brand has also released several body products, including a hair mist, shower gel and body cream.
Neela Vermeire Mohur (Bertrand Duchaufour)
The edp’s rose made even smoother, even more regal.
Guerlain Shalimar (Jacques Guerlain)
You can’t go wrong with any of the classic Guerlain extraits (grab them while they’re still around!) but for my money, the amber queen continues to reign supreme, especially in her most concentrated incarnation.
Chanel Cuir De Russie (Ernest Beaux)
Without question, one of the most heart-stopping leather compositions of all time.
Hermes Galop D’Hermes (Christine Nagel)
Nagel’s breathtakingly impeccable balance of rose and leather.
Olfactive Studio Violet Shot (Dominique Ropion)
The best of three new ‘Shots’ composed by Ropion, this one mixes bright violet with dark tannery notes.
Tauer Perfumes Au Coeur Du Desert (Andy Tauer)
The amber of the much-loved L’Air Du Desert Marocain deepened and darkened.
Francesca Bianchi Etruscan Water (Francesca Bianchi)
In a strong, all-extrait range, Etruscan Water stands out for its fascinating, uncompromising bitterness. One of the finest dry chypres I’ve had the pleasure of smelling for a long time. The brand’s discovery set is worth considering too.
Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire (Thierry Wasser)
An unfairly-overlooked modern extrait, showcasing the more suave, more grown-up facets of the brand’s hugely popular black dress.
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud (Francis Kurkdjian)
Still one of the best modern ouds, with its forward-thinking, east-meets-west aesthetic.
Jeroboam Unue (Vanina Muracciole)
Shimmering, unashamedly retro-loving composition of jasmine, ylang ylang and musks.
Cartier La Panthere Parfum (Mathilde Laurent)
A tamer, but still very welcome, addition to the purring gardenias of the Panthere range.
Tom Ford Black Orchid Parfum (perfumer unknown)
The Black Orchid cucumber-chocolate accord finally comes into its own in this version, with the help of boozy, rummy plum notes.
Chanel No. 22 (Ernest Beaux)
Take a scented flight to the angels, on aldehydic clouds of pristine white.
Persolaise
Christmas 2020 perfume gift guide part 2… coming soon!
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Hello Monsieur Persolaise! I recently discovered your wonderful website. You have an astonishing gift for using written and spoken language to describe scents – so evocative! I had not tried many Frederic Malle perfumes but I recently purchased the Discovery Set after watching your YouTube reviews. I wanted to share with you and your readers something interesting: although we may each believe we know ourselves, we can be completely taken by surprise by new perfumes that we enjoy. I have mostly selected rather “controlled” and woodsy, clean scents for myself until now. But I fell in love with Carnal Flower today. Maybe it’s the difficulties of 2020 that altered my preferences, but the giant bouquet of tuberose is my new favorite and it is bringing me joy. Thank you for your website which invited me down a path of new discoveries!
Hi Ann Marie,
Thanks very much for taking the time to leave such a lovely comment.
Yes, I completely agree with you — scent can take us to interesting, unexplored areas.
I am truly delighted that you’ve ‘connected’ with one of my favourite brands.
I’ve been having a moment with parfums as well, and your list may finally push me to purchase some of the Chanels; I’m eyeing Bois de Isles and No. 22 most. I’ve particularly fallen in love with the defunct Parfum des Merveilles for its woody richness (and maybe a shot of real ambergris?) and Jour for a golden beam of florals. Galop is a firm favorite too though.
Thanks for writing, Eric. I wonder why so many of us have been drawn to extraits at the moment.