The combo of woods and jasmine has always been kind to perfumers: one of those perfect marriages where the two players highlight the other’s strengths and create an impact greater than the sum of their parts. Several decades ago, it became the main reason for the enduring success of Caron’s Troisieme Homme. Last year, it was exploited to memorable effect by Christine Nagel in her Cedre Sambac (for Hermès’ Hermessence range). And now it appears again in BDK’s helpfully-named Wood Jasmin (although I should point out that the scent pre-dates the Hermès: it was released in 2016, but is relatively new to the UK market and to my nose). Here, Camille Leguay enables the two elements to make friends over dessert. She’s included a marked vanilla note in the drydown which links with the vanillic aspects of many woods (not least cedar) and the sweeter, intoxicating qualities of jasmine. It just about builds a convincing bridge across the entirety of the structure. But it’s the plummy, boozy, tobacco facets that really give this composition its distinctiveness. With their lick of lasciviousness, they lend proceedings the afterglow of a midnight feast in which sins are notched up with languorous abandon, and the resulting slumber is quiet, still and deeply satisfied. Allow yourself to surrender.
[BDK Wood Jasmin review based on a sample of eau de parfum provided by the brand in 2019.]
Persolaise
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