More mini-reviews from Twitter. For part 1 of this latest digest, please click here.
La Petite Robe Noire Couture from Guerlain (Thierry Wasser, 2014)*
Flanker that isn’t sure what to be: sweeter or deeper? Improves once past the fakey-fruit stage. Eventually, it presents a more sophisticated take on the black cherry idea, but I’d say: Stick with the fun-loving EDP.
Flanker that isn’t sure what to be: sweeter or deeper? Improves once past the fakey-fruit stage. Eventually, it presents a more sophisticated take on the black cherry idea, but I’d say: Stick with the fun-loving EDP.
Rappelle-Toi from L’Artisan Parfumeur (Bertrand Duchaufour, 2014)*
A highly-diffusive, coconut-inflected gardenia. Huge honey note in the background. Terribly sweet! To my mind, it lacks the startling 3-dimensionality of Duchaufour’s best work. But I must point out it won lots and LOTS of compliments.
Haute Voltige from L’Artisan Parfumeur (Bertrand Duchaufour, 2014)*
Sugared pineapple + grapefruit opening followed by a curious, animalic, barnyard drydown. I daresay the concept is ‘citrus turning cartwheels in the sky’ but execution isn’t compelling. Too many shades of powdered fruit drink.
Onde Sensuelle from L’Artisan Parfumeur (Bertrand Duchaufour, 2014)*
Starts off interesting. Weird combo of indole & tobacco. Dentist’s surgery filled with cigarette smoke. Then it turns more pedestrian – fairly ordinary smoky floral – but still the most intriguing of this year’s Explosions D’Émotions trio. This is the 1 to check out, I’d say.
Sugared pineapple + grapefruit opening followed by a curious, animalic, barnyard drydown. I daresay the concept is ‘citrus turning cartwheels in the sky’ but execution isn’t compelling. Too many shades of powdered fruit drink.
Onde Sensuelle from L’Artisan Parfumeur (Bertrand Duchaufour, 2014)*
Starts off interesting. Weird combo of indole & tobacco. Dentist’s surgery filled with cigarette smoke. Then it turns more pedestrian – fairly ordinary smoky floral – but still the most intriguing of this year’s Explosions D’Émotions trio. This is the 1 to check out, I’d say.
Le Petit Grain from Miller Harris (Lyn Harris, 2008/2014)*
Suitably metallic-citrus heart (you can taste brown twigs) leads to smooth herbal cologne. Quiet & likeable.
Harmattan from Roads (2014)*
The obligatory ‘Arabian’ scent. Pepper note is nicely done, but the mint + woods + synth sandalwood vibe is boring.
The obligatory ‘Arabian’ scent. Pepper note is nicely done, but the mint + woods + synth sandalwood vibe is boring.
Graduate 1954 from Roads (2014)*
Old-school leather with large civet note – assertive and dangerous – becomes a powdery, disappointing soapiness.
Old-school leather with large civet note – assertive and dangerous – becomes a powdery, disappointing soapiness.
Bitter End from Roads (2014)*
Translucent, gently green take on Ireland’s coastline. Endearing combo of Cristalle + Calyx. Base is too shampoo-y.
Translucent, gently green take on Ireland’s coastline. Endearing combo of Cristalle + Calyx. Base is too shampoo-y.
Clockwork from Roads (2014)*
Striking woody opening (mainly cedar), but like others in the range, soon becomes mono-dimensional and uninvolving.
Striking woody opening (mainly cedar), but like others in the range, soon becomes mono-dimensional and uninvolving.
This Weekend from Roads (2014)*
Apples, cider and wood fires served with pink fruit. Shades of Coco Mademoiselle. Rather insubstantial.
Apples, cider and wood fires served with pink fruit. Shades of Coco Mademoiselle. Rather insubstantial.
White Noise from Roads (2014)*
Attempts to capture ‘hum’ of technology. Succeeds at first (with fuzzy florals) but descends into cheap deodorant.
Attempts to capture ‘hum’ of technology. Succeeds at first (with fuzzy florals) but descends into cheap deodorant.
Neon from Roads (2014)*
Sugar bubble lined with iridescent pinks and greens. Synthetic sweetness is oddly endearing, but it fades to dullness.
Sugar bubble lined with iridescent pinks and greens. Synthetic sweetness is oddly endearing, but it fades to dullness.
Supernova from Roads (2014)*
Well-constructed citrus opening (sharp grapefruit + lime) loses charm and leads to familiar, mock-ambery drydown.
Well-constructed citrus opening (sharp grapefruit + lime) loses charm and leads to familiar, mock-ambery drydown.
Lights from Roads (2014)*
Orange blossom on vanilla, like L’Heure Bleue pierced by a spotlight. Curious combo of modern + old school. Attractive.
Orange blossom on vanilla, like L’Heure Bleue pierced by a spotlight. Curious combo of modern + old school. Attractive.
Cloud 9 from Roads (2014)*
An acid cloud of oddly powdery citruses over a generic ‘clean’ base. Turns bitter, cheap-smelling and pretty nasty.
An acid cloud of oddly powdery citruses over a generic ‘clean’ base. Turns bitter, cheap-smelling and pretty nasty.
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Persolaise
* sample provided by brand
** sample obtained by the author
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