Round-up time again. Here are some Twitter mini-reviews, covering the period July to September 2016:
Classique Essence De Parfum from Jean-Paul Gaultier (Daphne Bugey; 2016)*
The familiar mimosa/jasmine/orange blossom accord cranked up with buckets of sugar. Too much to take.
Le Male Essence De Parfum from Jean-Paul Gaultier (Quentin Bisch; 2016)*
Original’s fougère structure is intact, with cardamom at top & a sweeter base. Teenage boys can rejoice.
Modern Muse Nuit from Estée Lauder (2016)*
She’s all grown up! Translucent florals expertly contrasted with burnt nut notes. Genuinely intriguing work.
Licorice rammed into a chest of hot spices then wrapped with a leather belt. Sickly. Off-putting. Bit of a mess.
Pour Elle Sensuelle edp from Angel Schlesser (Amandine Marie; 2016)*
Shampoo musks – with sweetness turned down – beneath pale red currant notes. A harmless nothing.
Ether Oxyde from Æther (Amélie Bourgeois & Anne-Sophie Behaghel; 2016)*
Super-synthetic, inconsequential & mono-dimensional combo of pale amber notes, abrasive woods and a sickly marine facet.
Balenciaga B. Skin from Balenciaga (2015)*
Convincingly intimate presentation of subtle citrus over close-fitting musks, with hint of leather. Well-named. Pretty.
Outrageously Vibrant edp from Diana Vreeland (Carlos Benaim; 2014)*
A grand dame in the Must De Cartier manner, all chocolate, rose & spice. Lilies thrown in for contrast.
Musc Impérial from Atelier Cologne (2015)*
Green-figgy citrus over clinical woods, sage, rosemary & lavender. Pale musks. Not especially magisterial.
Close Up from Olfactive Studio (Annick Menardo; 2016)*
Very well executed amber drydown beneath an eyebrow-raising note of coffee & rose. Typically dark Menardo work.
Bikini Questa Sera from Christian Louboutin (2016)*
Playful fizz of fig-coconut-pineapple beach holiday cliches. But somehow it works. Bring your own straw hat.
Tornade Blonde from Christian Louboutin (2016)*
Pale, pistachio-green hues over cedar-based, Chanel Chance-like structure. Heads close to sticky, rosy sweetness.
Trouble In Heaven from Christian Louboutin (2016)*
Caramel. Vanilla. Tonka bean. Calorie overload smeared across amber and patchouli . We’ve had this meal before.
Aventus For Her from Creed (2016)*
Sulphurous grapefruit opening. Screeching white florals. Abrasive woods. Weedy incense. Expect thousands to buy it.
Soleil Blanc from Tom Ford (Nathalie Gracia-Cetto; 2016)*
One of those coconut & white floral combos which tries too hard to be a zany holiday rep. Ford is usually classier.
Persolaise
* sample provided by the brand
** sample obtained by the author
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