One of the few bone fide icons of the last century – the inimitable Chanel No. 5 – will soon be celebrating its 100th birthday, so I decided to mark the occasion with a special episode of Love At First Scent. I focussed on the extrait, as well as giving some time to the eau de toilette, the eau de parfum and the most recent version, L’Eau. (I covered the superb Eau Premiere in another broadcast a while ago.) Here’s a link to the video: 100 Years Of Chanel No. 5.
As I said in the live stream, much has been written about what makes Ernest Beaux‘s composition so special and why it has stood the test of time with such remarkable strength. I think I agree with all the theories to some extent. But most recently, I’ve been struck by the thought that perhaps No. 5 has, for some strange, alchemical reason, managed to be an olfactory vessel for our collective psyche. Across the decades, something about its construction has allowed us to project all our shifting concerns onto it, turning it into the perfect ‘scent reflection’ of our worries and concerns. Not too long ago, what I tended to notice about it was its more sensuous side: that seamless balance between the various florals. But most recently, I’ve found myself reading it as an expression of celestial purity, of an angelic cleanliness. I have no doubt this is because… how shall I put it?… hand-washing is much on our minds at the moment. And it proves that, yet again, No. 5 has succeeded in making itself relevant to modern times. Long may it continue to do so!
Appropriately enough, this video also marked the day when my YouTube subscriber count crossed the 5000 mark. Many, many thanks to all of you for helping me reach this milestone. There is no way I could have done it without your support and encouragement.
Persolaise
[Chanel No. 5 extrait and L’Eau samples provided by the brand; the remainder are from my personal collection.]
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Personally, No 5 has always possessed an otherworldly beauty. One of my most treasured perfumery possessions is a 1970s bottle of the extrait, which I inherited from my late mum. I find it rounder, fuller and more curvaceous than recent versions, perhaps due to the use of certain ingredients that have now been discontinued following IFRA regulations (eg, nitro musks?).
Even though the extrait is my favourite concentration of the fragrance, it is the warm, mellow and voluptuous drydown of the EDP that elicits the most compliments from friends. I also adore the Eau Premiere, although strangely, it does not last very long on my skin ….
I always look forward to your broadcasts, and there is always the added frisson and excitement when Monsieur Salmon pops up to offer a pithy observation or two! LOL
Please keep up the good work.
Michael
Yes, Renaud is becoming something of a regular guest!
Look after that vintage extrait!
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