In the same way that anyone claiming they’re cool almost certainly isn’t, anyone claiming to be a disruptor is probably so firmly entrenched in the establishment, they wouldn’t know a revolutionary act if it smacked them across the face with a bandana. This is what ran through my mind as I read the self-congratulatory prose accompanying the new-ish British brand, Diem. I reviewed three of their works, as as well as the entirety of the catalogue from the Francis Kurkdjian-founded house, Indult, in a recent set of Love At First Scent episodes. Here are links to them: Diem showcase review — Indult showcase review.
Love Tangle 9:03
Self Made 12:09
Two Halves 14:41
Tihota 8:44
Manakara 13:29
Isvaraya 16:06
Diem represents everything that’s wrong with contemporary perfumery: hollow publicity (their cringe-inducing marketing implies they believe they’ve invented the concept of a perfume wardrobe), unreasonably high prices (£25 for 10 ml is not cheap), and surprise surprise, dull, derivative fragrances. According to this particular doctor: a Diem a day should be kept well away.
Diem launched with more than ten scents. Indult have been around since 2006 but currently have only four perfumes in their range. Therein lies everything you need to know about the differences between the two brands. Founded by Francis Kurkdjian and then bought by Kim Charles, Indult have quietly nurtured their minimal collection, confident that aficionados will continue to find them. Their self-assurance is justified. Tihota is considered by many to be one of the greatest vanilla compositions of all time: a genuinely mouth-watering confection spun with burnt sugar, cream and fudgy delirium. What’s more, it never becomes silly or condescending. My personal favourites are Isvaraya (echoes of the plum-incense facets of Opium linked to a shadow-seeking blend of amber and patchouli) and Cuir 404, which I reviewed here. If the brand is going to create new works, I’d imagine it’ll have to seek the services of a new perfumer, but given how carefully he’s guarded Kurkdjian’s babies, I’m sure Charles will release nothing unless he’s certain it’s top-notch stuff.
Persolaise
[Review samples provided by the brands.]
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