A fresh take on Fracas. Yet another oud. And the debut of a self-proclaimed ‘disruptor’ brand. Just three of the subjects of some recent YouTube broadcasts, the links to which you’ll find here: Celine Zouzou, Acqua Di Parma Oud & Zagara, Piguet A’Lombre and othersNoyz showcase reviewMaison Louis Marie showcase review. For a complete rundown of the scents that were covered, as well as further thoughts on some of the releases, please keep scrolling.

Acqua Di Parma Oud & Zagara 3:42
Quartana Soleil Invisible (Christina Christie) 17:20
Dusita Pelagos (Pissara Umavijani) 26:45
Piguet Fracas Eau Fraiche 34:05
Piguet A L’Ombre 38:25
Celine Zouzou 44:54

Unmute (Jerome Epinette) 5:39
Sh**ty Day (Jerome Epinette) 8:50
Lost + Found (Jerome Epinette) 14:51
Love Club (Jerome Epinette) 18:28

No. 12 4:40
No. 09 7:12
No. 02 10:19

If the wares from Noyz serve any purpose whatsoever, it’s probably to offer a reminder of everything that’s wrong with the perfume industry at the moment, from the try-hard marketing shtick to the uninspired compositions. I suspect the aggressive advertising will enable the brand to do well.

You’d be far better off checking out the new Piguet A L’Ombre. A woodier, more caramelised take on Habit Rouge, its drydown isn’t as compelling and contrast-filled as its opening, but that doesn’t mean it isn’t worthy of your time. Similarly, the whispering cutesiness of Celine Zouzou is charming at the start, but requires a bit more sass to justify its name, rather than the merely pleasant haze of sweet balsams we get in the base.

Somewhat unexpectedly, the most intriguing fragrance in the first video turned out to be the new Acqua Di Parma Oud & Zagara. ‘Done to death’ is a bit of an understatement when it comes to oud, but somehow, the brand has managed to find something new to bring to the crowded agar table. Granted, perhaps there’s less oud here than there is zagara (the Italian word for orange blossom), but the manner in which the animalic florals illuminate the woods is commendable, causing them to shimmer in and out of view like a distant island seen through the haze from the vantage point of the Sicilian coast. Equally praiseworthy is the restrained use of woody ambers!

Persolaise

[Samples provided by the brands for review purposes.]


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Acqua Di Parma Oud & Zagara review by award-winning perfume critic Persolaise, 2024

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