Persolaise Persolaise Review: SE1 + N6 + W1X + EC2 from Bex London (2012)
I don’t envy anyone trying to start a niche perfume brand today. In an environment where over 1000 fragrances are released every year, standing out from the crowd is virtually…
If It’s Tuesday, This Must Be Home
Normal service is on the verge of being resumed. I hope you’ve all been well during my blogging break and that you’ve enjoyed the reviews that popped up during my…
Persolaise Review: Eau Sauvage parfum + Addict Eau Sensuelle from Christian Dior (2012) + Premiere from Gucci (2012) + Eau Dynamisante from Clarins (1987/2012)
Most of Dior’s recent alterations to their main fragrance range (fiddling around with the names of the various Miss Diors, tinkering with the Addicts etc) have been baffling, to say…
When Does A Negative Become A Positive?
Every now and then, the question of the value of negative reviews raises its head, which is why a recent article by the restaurant critic Jay Rayner grabbed my attention.…
Persolaise Review: Mukhalat Malaki from Swiss Arabian + Perfume Calligraphy from Aramis + Encounter from Calvin Klein (2012)
It’s always round about this time of year (can’t think why) that I tend to be asked what makes so-called Arabic-style perfumes smell so… Arabic. If I were a chemist…
Persolaise Review: Notes + Bois Noir + Casbah + Mademoiselle + Oud from Robert Piguet (2012)
Fashion Fragrances & Cosmetics Ltd – the company that currently owns the licence for Robert Piguet Parfums – was always going to face a tricky, ‘turning the corner’ moment at…
Persolaise Review: La Petite Robe Noire + Déserts D’Orient from Guerlain (2012)
Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire perfume review by award-winning critic, Persolaise (2012, Thierry Wasser, fragrance)
The Enigmatic Illusionist – An Interview With Jean-Claude Ellena
It’s interesting to consider why Jean-Claude Ellena attracts as much reverence as he does. The simplest explanation might be that he deserves it for his work. After all, Déclaration, Terre…
Persolaise Review: Santal Majuscule from Serge Lutens + Alien eau de toilette + Alien Essence Absolue from Thierry Mugler + Amazingreen from Comme Des Garçons (2012)
Image: Papillio Asking whether a perfume contains real East Indian sandalwood is almost as pointless as asking whether it contains real oud: as has been widely reported, the finest quality…
Pause Button: Summer 2012
For the next few weeks, I’m going to try to focus my attention not on my laptop, but on the business of getting some much-needed rest and relaxation, which means…
Persolaise Review: Celtic Fire + Quince, Mint & Moss + Holy Thistle + Gothic Bluebell from Union + Diamond Jubilee Bouquet from Grossmith (2012)
It’s always tricky going for a unifying theme when creating a fragrance range. Some ideas seem more forced than others: the ‘Indian history’ approach of Neela Vermeire Creations generally attracted…
If You’re Going To Criticise Someone’s Work…
Yesterday, The Observer published Rachel Cooke’s review of Jean-Claude Ellena’s new book. Sadly, her appraisal did little more than remind me that mainstream media really shouldn’t tackle the subject of…
Persolaise Review: Peoneve from Penhaligon’s (2012) + Sepia (2012) + Secret Garden (2011) from Aftelier
In the catalogue of olfactory families, there’s a sub-set of florals that do everything they should with no unnecessary fanfare. They’re clever without being show-offs. They display excellent tenacity without…
Twenty Blotters For… Olivier Cresp + A Story About Angel
Although the man himself may need an introduction, his work almost certainly doesn’t. Elle (YSL), Dune Pour Homme (Dior), Midnight Poison (Dior), Light Blue (Dolce & Gabbana) and of course…
Any Questions For Jean-Claude Ellena? + Guess What: More Oud
Just a few quickies from me today. Firstly, it was wonderful to see an article on Basenotes last Tuesday reporting the imminent publication of my perfume guide. Please click here…
Persolaise Review: Interlude Man + Interlude Woman from Amouage + Light Blue Dreaming In Portofino + Light Blue Living Stromboli from Dolce & Gabbana (2012)
The subject of inspiration in perfumery often attracts sniggers. According to some critics, it’s acceptable for a creator to claim that a particular scent emerged from the experience of smelling…
It’s Official: Women Prefer Musky Toilets
I try to resist the pressure to think about and assess perfume in terms of inter-sex relations. But I was prompted to re-consider my stance by a fascinating Robin Dunbar…
Issey Miyake Interview + 2012 Hall Of Fame On Basenotes
Some of you will recall that in May, I published the list of nominees for the FiFi UK 2012 Hall Of Fame. The winner was determined by votes that were…
Persolaise Review: Mito eau de parfum from Vero Profumo (2012) + Escale À Parati from Christian Dior (2012)
Serendipity is surprising at the best of times, but perfume serendipity tends to be especially astonishing. A few weeks ago, I drew a parallel between the creations of Angela Flanders…
Poisonous Mistakes – An Interview With Givaudan (Part 2)
In the first instalment of this interview, Givaudan’s Jean Guichard and Hervé Fretay explained the cross-cultural ethos they now follow when selecting new students for their world-famous fragrance creation course.…