Tauer Vanilla Absolue, Arquiste Nocturnality, Granado Apotecario and other reviews – 2025

There was a time when the word ‘Tauer’ was almost entirely synonymous with the idea of independent perfumery. Zurich-based Andy Tauer — a self-taught perfumer who started his brand by selling his wares at a friend’s shop — represented all that was best and most authentic about the non-mainstream side of the industry. Things have changed since then. The notion of indie scent-making is markedly different from what it was a few decades ago, and Andy’s style and approach to his work have also gone through a bit of a transformation. Nevertheless, the 20th anniversary of the founding of his much-loved house is an occasion not to be left unmarked, which is why I reviewed one of his latest releases, Vanilla Absolue, in a recent set of Love At First Scent episodes, in which I also covered new offerings from Arquiste and Granado. Here are links to all three videos, followed by further thoughts on some of the perfumes: Arquiste Tropical and Nocturnality reviews — Granado Citrus Brasilis and Apotecario reviews — 20th anniversary of Tauer and Vanilla Absolue review.

Nocturnality (Rodrigo Flores-Roux) 3:49
Tropical (Rodrigo Flores-Roux) 17:22

Citrus Brasilis (Quentin Bisch) 5:12
Apotecario (Quentin Bisch) 11:05

Do seek out Vanilla Absolue if you can. The tenderness at the core of its vanillic structure calls to mind the innocence of some of Andy’s older creations, as does its use of slightly vintage-style aldehydic notes at the top. For my money, it’s superior to 2015’s Vanilla Flash, on which it’s based.

The new Arquistes are worth your time too. Once you accept that Nocturnality isn’t the sweat-soaked, X-rated, take-my-virtue-now-and-hide-it-deep-within-the-zip-up-pockets-of-your-shiny-black-trousers leather, its presentation of rubbery notes with an oud facet is attractive. But the real surprise is Tropical, for the way it avoids gag-inducing pineapple-and-guava cliches and instead gives us a soft-focus, dare I say delicate presentation of beach-friendly fruit and laziness-loving sunshine.

Persolaise

[Review samples provided by the brands, with the exception of the Tauer, which was obtained by me.]

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